Honest tour operators warn their guests in advance: "There are no whales in autumn-winter!", so their tourists are prepared for such an outcome. Although they still hope for a miracle. Photo: Natalia LOBANOVA / Neural Network
A blue back was shown, elegantly waving its tail - in a moment, it vanished into the depths of the Barents Sea. But the emotions for tourists last a lifetime! Many travelers come to the Murmansk region specifically to see the whales. The subpolar guides (LLC "Ponaehali") even have a patented slogan: "Whales Come True".
However, this winter, the sea creatures are not living up to this phrase, seemingly choosing to be introverts. Whales have not been seen in Teriberka for several months - the last sighting was in October. And they just passed by. Last season, there were plenty of giants: from mid-December to early March, they were present in Teriberka Bay, and spent all of June and July near Kil'din Island. Now, tourist chats frequently mention: "The sea only has waves; unfortunately, there are no whales." Where has one of the main attractions of the Kola Peninsula gone? The answer was sought by "KP"-Murmansk among guides and scientists.
Several species of whales inhabit the Barents Sea: you can encounter the northern minke whale and the humpback whale (which tourists usually see on excursions in Teriberka), as well as the fin whale, sei whale, and even the blue whale. Local residents are not surprised by the presence of whales, but sea excursions with photo hunts for the giants have only started recently, just 3-4 years ago, when demand surged. During this time, whales were spotted almost every month. Of course, they didn't come just to please tourists; they came for the plentiful fish along the coast.
According to fishermen, large schools of herring usually enter Teriberka's bays in February, but this year they are absent. Consequently, the whales have nothing to eat, which is why we don't see them - why would they come to an empty table?
"Indeed, the whales did not arrive this year. This may be related to the fact that all the fish has moved away from the shore. There is no cod, no pollock, not even saithe. In winter, when herring traditionally comes, whales come to feed and stay here until the end of March. I fear that in March, when cod comes for its spring spawning, the fishing season might be disrupted. Something is affecting the fish. Scientists note that the North Pole is shifting eastward. Perhaps this is influencing the fish as well. The fish have moved towards the New Land area. Most likely, the whales are there," says Sergiy Petrov, a boat owner from Teriberka, who conducts sea excursions.
Many travelers come to the Murmansk region specifically to see the whales.
Photo: Anton ZABIROV. Go to the KP Photo Bank
Not finding food here, the whales migrated to other regions, further south. Aleksey Zaytsev, head of the marine mammals laboratory at MMBI and a researcher, explains that most cetaceans usually enter the Barents Sea during the feeding period - summer and autumn. During this time, algae bloom actively, and there is a lot of plankton and fish. In winter, they leave for the south, all the way to Antarctica. In short, they are true travelers.
So, having feasted on fish in other areas, the marine giants might return to their familiar Teriberka. However, when exactly is unknown. Due to the lack of long-term observations of whales in the Murmansk region, there are no specific data on when they should return to the Barents Sea. But it cannot be said that if the whales did not visit us for one winter, it is an anomaly. The scientist states: the ocean is the home for whales, not a specific sea.
"Such fluctuations (any random deviation from any quantity. – Ed.) when large whale species leave and return are quite normal. Minke whales can be found in the Barents Sea year-round, including in the coastal zone, but they can also migrate to more southern areas. The movements of whales depend primarily on food. Animals that undertake long migrations can change their habits. They have about one breeding ground, but different 'dining spots.' They can return in summer, or they might not return for a year. It depends on whether there is fish, the same herring. After all, commercial fish species are caught by humans, so the anthropogenic factor plays a role. However, global warming is unlikely to affect their migration. Whales can maintain their body temperature, and a couple of degrees do not bother them, as they can swim from the Arctic to Antarctica without issue," believes Aleksey Zaytsev.
Guides also affirm that fish is the main reason for the temporary absence of whales. For instance, neighboring Norway has better luck: whales are observed there year-round, and in winter they can be seen right from the shore. The "whale peak" occurs here from October to January when large quantities of herring enter the bays. Neighbors often spot orcas and humpback whales because there is fish available every season.
"Previously, whales appeared only in two seasons, and we always said that we don't have them in autumn and winter – they go to the equator. It is also quite possible that in neighboring bays, where the sea creatures have gone, there is fish. As snorkelers (snorkeling is swimming with whales. – Ed.), we see that there is not a large quantity of fish in Teriberka. And whales, of course, do not come just to show off to tourists; their main goal is to eat," shared Elena Lanovaya, director of one of the Murmansk tour companies, with "KP"-Murmansk.
In spring and summer, the chances of seeing whales during a sea excursion in Teriberka are higher than in autumn and winter.
Photo: Maria PASHENKOVA. Go to the KP Photo Bank
Of course, the departure of whales affects the work of guides, although not critically. While tourists from China are less interested in marine fauna (they are more attracted by the Northern Lights), Russians travel to the Kola Peninsula specifically for the giants. Therefore, the demand from our compatriots for sea excursions has decreased.
"People come to see the whales, and they are not here, just like dolphins and seals. Empty, clear water. Well, we still go out, enjoying the beauty of nature," says Sergiy Petrov.
Honest tour operators warn their guests in advance: "There are no whales in autumn-winter!", so their tourists are prepared for such an outcome. Although they still hope for a miracle.
Murmansk guide Dmitry Babenko notes that the situation has returned to what it was before the "whale boom" of the winter of 2022-2023. At that time, humpbacks entered Teriberka, and the tour community split into two camps. Some guides understood that this unique natural phenomenon might not happen next winter, while others simply capitalized on the hype, building their advertising campaigns around "tails and fountains," which may now lead to losses.
"The first group, on the contrary, always emphasized that encountering whales is not guaranteed - it is merely a pleasant bonus, not the main goal of a sea excursion, which allowed them to maintain their status with their audience," the guide insists. "Whales in Teriberka remain the most frequent request, and sometimes when tourists learn that there are currently no whales, they cancel their trip. But this happens infrequently. In the segment of group tours, such cancellations likely happen more often. Thus, the absence of whales has almost no impact on the flow to Teriberka. There are fewer sea excursions, but the sea remains beautiful."
Another Murmansk guide Vladimir Onatsky agrees that there are slightly fewer tourists, but winter is a busy season, so the absence of whales hasn't significantly affected those wanting to go out to sea. After all, aside from marine inhabitants, there is plenty to see.
"A sea excursion has always been an interesting adventure, even before the whales arrived. It remains the same adventure now. Plus, each outing could be the one where tourists write to us: 'They have returned!'", says the excursion leader.
So when should we expect the whales now? According to guides' observations, they may approach various corners of the Barents Sea - to Ura-Guba, the Rybachiy Peninsula, Kil'din Island, and Teriberka itself - around mid-spring to early summer. By